0
Winkelwagen
Er zijn geen artikelen in uw winkelwagen

How to repair a MB/GPW fuel gauge

First step:

Image

A dirty, well used, original 6 Volt two connector fuel gauge, the WWII jeep standard model.

First measurements:

Image

The resistance between the two posts is about 36 Ohm here. That´s ok. I measured values between 30 to 42 Ohms here.

next step:

Image

Uh-oh :shock:

here´s the problem of 99% of all fuel gauges.

The resistance between the left connector and the housing is infinite here. That´s wrong!!

Ok, so we´re going to dismantle it:

Image

I´m using a special tool, but a big screwdriver will work, too.
Here´s a closeup of my tool:

Image

When you bent the lid a bit, a small pair of pliers will do the rest:

Image

After going round the lid with the pliers, you can remove the lid. Then you´ll have this here:

Image

Some parts and a lot of dust and dirt...

To get the mechanics out of the housing, you´ll have to remove the two nuts from the connectors.
I put them in my bench vice with a rag to protect the thread...
Then I remove the nuts with some pliers...

Image

Then you can completely dismantle the gauge:

Image

Make sure not to loose the two insulator washers!

And here we see our problem:

Image

There should be contact between the rear wall of the housing and the brass plate in the middle of the rear...

Here is the gauge itself, after removing the dial, front view:

Image

And here again, with instructions, what goes where:

Image

But first we´re going to measure the resistances of the two coils:

Coil one:

Image

It is the coil that is connected to the housing and the left connector (=the right one on this front view!) It should have a value between 40 to 55 Ohms.


Coil two:

Image

It is the one that is soldered to the two connectors.

It should have a value between 30 and 32 Ohms, the same we´ve measured before.

Here´s again what has to be soldered where:

Image

Coil one (the left one in the pic) has it´s rear wire soldered to the connector in the middle, on the rear brass sheet.
The front wire is soldered to the right connector, together with the right front wire of coil two.

Coil two (the right one in the pic) has it´s left wire soldered to the left connector.

Additionally, I solder the threaded bolt and the loop of the connectors together to secure a good and durable contact:

Image

After that, you can secure the threaded bolts with some two component resin or something similar...

Next thing to do is to solder the rivet and the rear brass sheet together for the same reason:

Image

Here´s a pic of the ready soldered gauge, showing the wires connected to the right spots:

Image

Now we can take the measurements again:

Image

Good value!

Image

Good value, too!

What comes next is additional work. It is not original, but I think it can´t be seen and secures a durable function of the gauge.
It´s up to you if you want to do this:

Solder a piece of wire to the brass plate on the rear:

Image

The other end of the wire is soldered to the inner side of the housing itself:

Image

If you don´t want to add this wire, you just have to clean the rear inner wall of the housing with a file and the rear brass sheet to secure good contact.

Next step:

the dial goes back on:

Image

Be sure to bend the hand straight, so that it won´t touch the dial or the front glass!

Put the two small insulator washers back on and stick the complete gauge back into the housing.

Image

Be sure not to turn it upside down! The notch of the housing must be at the 6 o´clock position.

Secure the gauge with two new lockwashers and nuts.

Now is the time to measure again:

Image

Value between the two posts is still ok.

Image

And -- TADAAA! --- the value between left post and housing is fine, too. Now the fuel gauge should work just fine for a looooooong time!



All you have to do now is clean dial and glass and lid, and put everything back on.
The rim of the lid gets bent over with a pair of pliers. Then just paint it.

Last thing to do is claen the back of the housing´s outside to secure good grounding to the dashboard and the dashboar clamp.


You see, it´s not hard to make a fuel gauge work again!

My advice here is just for the WWII 6 volt modell, I don´t know if it works for the later types, too.
The grounding problems are the same. The Ohm values should be different, though.

 

Copyright © 2018 jeep parts jef. Alle rechten voorbehouden.
Betaal opties Bankaccount BE83 0000 1329 0515 BPOT BE B1
YOUR SAVE ITEMS (0)
YOUR SAVE ITEMS (0)
No products in wishlist

Clear all

View all